Which cleaner is right for me?
The number one rule in beauty, the most universal one, the one we've been told incessantly since our early teens is without a doubt to never forget to remove your make-up before going to sleep.
This myth, which is not a myth at all, since the consequences of our little deviations can almost always be seen immediately at the foot of the bed, is indeed one of the most important keys to a flawless complexion.
But what is effective cleansing, and how do you choose the right care for your skin type?
Follow the guide!
Contrary to many preconceived ideas, and despite the well-deserved reputation of a thorough cleaning ritual, it is not actually necessary to clean up after waking up.
In the morning, when our skin has just come out of a restful sleep and a thin layer of sebum has settled on our epidermis to protect it, it is better not to interfere with nature (which almost always does things right!) and to leave our skin alone.
Over-stimulation through cleansing in the shower with foaming gels, or even your usual soft balm, could overly remove our natural protective oils and thus aggress our skin, forcing it in the long run to produce much more sebum in overcompensation (and all the little pimples that go with it! No thanks!).
Like us, our skin prefers a more gentle morning routine before facing a new day. So, we avoid manipulating it too much and if we feel like a little invigorating, we opt instead for a hydrating hydrolate (like Hydra Mist Repair Odacité or Vital Unifier Nuori).
It's much later, when the day is over and it's time to go to bed, that the real work begins.
Whether you wear make-up every day or not, and whatever your skin type, double-cleansing is an essential part of any good skincare routine.
Between the debris of makeup and pollution, but also our specially formulated sunscreens that are extra, extra sticky (as their precious bodyguard mission demands!) it's simply impossible to clean your skin effectively the first time.
A single cleansing is the best way to quickly accumulate pimples and blackheads, especially for blemish-prone skin, although no skin is really spared in this respect.
Thus, the first cleansing really "removes make-up", while the second one will really focus on a deep cleansing.
This process, even if it requires a little more patience, also ensures the good action and penetration of the other treatments in our routine.
Help, I have dry skin!
Unsurprisingly, the smoother the better for dry skin. When our skin is tight and small traces of flaking are showing their face, we give up on foaming gels and soaps that are always too drying and opt instead for very gentle oils and milks.
Dry skin is an ideal candidate for double-cleaning with oil, without the need for other formulations at a later stage.
That said, for those of you who may have a little trouble getting used to this particular texture, a more traditional cleansing milk or cream would also be a wonderful second cleansing option.
In the morning, hands up! Dry skin suffers even more than the norm from over-stimulation of the skin and it would be cruel to take away what little excess natural oils it desperately clings to.
In case of emergency or discomfort, we adopt a nourishing mist that we also spray to moisten our skin before applying our serum, cream and day oil for a better penetration.
Help, I have sensitive skin!
As with dry skin, it is always best to proceed with caution and not overdo it when dealing with the changing moods of a reactive epidermis.
Unless it's really too uncomfortable, we try to avoid cleansing in the morning at all costs and opt instead, if the need arises, for a moisturising hydrolate with soothing properties that we apply with a cotton pad or directly by misting.
For the evening double-cleanse, oils, balms and creams with the simplest possible formulations are preferred and care products containing fragrances or too many essential oils are avoided.
Most importantly, never indulge in a hot water bath (either when removing your cleanser or when taking a shower or bath - water vapours are just as dehydrating).
Help, I have oily skin!
It's always very tempting to constantly de-clog oily skin and remove as much oil as possible to limit the shine that plagues us throughout the day - and yet this is exactly the opposite of the recommended regime for combination skin.
Although it may seem counterproductive, there is no need to "soak up" the excess natural oils of oily skin with soaps and foaming gels.
In fact, the opposite is true, as this type of product tends to attack the epidermis, immediately compromising its protective skin barrier, causing surface inflammation and immediately pushing it to produce even more sebum.
The watchword? A lot of gentleness! To gradually bring your skin back into balance, opt for gentle formulations such as milks, creams, oils and non-foaming gels and, if tolerable, avoid cleansing in the morning if possible.
If the skin is too oily when you wake up, apply a very gentle milk and massage it into the skin as little as possible.
In the evening, on the other hand, a thorough double-cleansing is carried out and oils are favoured - since oil attracts oil - making these creamy treatments the most effective to use on combination skin.
If you need a bit of freshness and oils are not your cup of tea, you may opt for a milk as a second cleansing step.
Help, I have pimples!
Just as it may seem counterproductive to treat very oily skin with soft oils, it is absolutely essential to do the same with acne-prone and blemished skin.
Skin that already has small pimples here and there suggests that the skin barrier has been compromised - and therefore repair is a priority - but also that inflammation is present.
So the gentler the better! If you can comfortably avoid it, just run your face under cold water in the morning or quickly cleanse it with a hydrosol rather than cleansing.
In the evening, on the other hand, a double cleansing is absolutely essential to avoid the appearance of new imperfections. For an ultra-efficient but never invasive cleansing, we opt for an oil or an oil balm in the first phase, then, if it is more comfortable, we transition to a milk or even a micellar water in the second phase if we feel like something a little more astringent.